Turbidity Visualization – alternative design

In the first turbidity node design I re-used leftover plastic of one of the bottle designs as the circuit carrier and copper tape for connections. This proved to be tricky as the heat during soldering would distort the plastic and dissolve the glue of the copper tape, making it lift off the surface and weaken the connections.

In a new attempt to provide a seamful design, this new prototype uses copper coated welding rods and copper wire as conducting elements and at the same time as structural element. This means the circuit would not require a surface, such as paper or plastic, but would only consist of conducting copper elements. For a first test I used a 1.2mm rod and experimented with soldering various wires and components to the rod. Soldering wire to the copper rod works well after removing the oxidation layer with sandpaper. The enameled copper wire also only solders well after sanding, which is time consuming when many components are involved. The advantage of this, however, is that the 3 dimensional circuit is less likely to be short-circuited, if parts accidentally touch – except for the conductive elements of the LEDs and the solder points.

I envisioned the test design to contain a set of 3 addressable LED sets that fit inside a glass jar. I bent the Ground wire into a circular shape to act as a base for the circuit which will connect to a set of LEDs to be controlled by a Wemos D1 board. After a hopeless attempt to use SMD LEDs for this circuit I found that 3mm LED diodes are much better suited for this kind of circuit.

In the end, I connected a set of three LEDs to three individually addressable wires. The copper rod needs to be bent carefully with flat pliers while the copper wire bends into shapes very easily. This gives the final circuit a quite messy look and I am unsure the design in this form would be suitable to provide any meaningful visualization of the turbidity reading.

The circuit appears quite fragile, the copper wires can be bent and crushed in the hand which gives it quite a unique aesthetic when handheld. Once transferred into a glass jar, the intricacies of the circuit design fade into the background, and the bright blue LEDs, as well as the battery and the small circuit board, distract from the fragile wires. I programmed the board with a simple test sketch that loops through the three LEDs.

The next step involves connecting this design to the turbidity sensor through my local MQTT network. I submerge my turbidity sensor into a glass bowl filled with water to get more realistic sensor data readings for this test. Unfortunately, the circuit design appears to be tricky to be programmed, and only after a while am I able to successfully de-tangle the wires that must have short-circuited somewhere, causing the code to malfunction and print nonsensical glyphs in the serial monitor when I try to debug my code.

Once my LED node is properly connecting to the WiFi network and correctly receiving the sensor data I map the turbidity to the amount of LEDs being switched on. To achieve a more murky fluid for this test I add a teabag to the water. I notice that the value changes are not as extreme as i would have hoped for and assume that a different resistor, perhaps a trimpot, would help to get more accurate data. Another issue with the sensor data is jumpiness. This could be because the LDR is just not suitable for an accurate measurement, or perhaps the sensor design is not waterproof and hence unreliable. Perhaps the code could be improved by measuring a running average over a couple of miliseconds, instead of measuring the brightness only once sand immediately transmitting this data.

Despite issues with the quality of sensor data, I learned a lot about the feasibility of this circuit design. While the copper wire gives the circuit a unique, messy look that I generally like, it is unsuitable for providing an easily understandable visualization of sensor data. Using only copper rods in combination with 3mm LEDs could work with a refined sketch on how to accurately map the sensor reading to an arrat of LEDs.

Turbidity Sensor III – One more time

The next iteration of the turbidity sensor requires more thorough waterproofing from the beginning. Prototype I started as a simple proof-of-concept of the component combination ( LED, LDR in a garden hose enclosure) and had no consideration of waterproofing. After that, the focus of Prototype II lay on improving the initial design’s lack of water-proofing and adding long cables so it can be eventually tested out in the field.

Part I: Components, cables and heat shrinking tube

For this turbidity sensor design, I used an approximately two-meter-long stranded core CAT-5 cable to connect my white LED and my LDR to my Wemos D1 board.

After assembly, I immediately sealed the components that eventually get submerged into the water with heat shrink tubing (yellow for the LED, green for the LDR).

My first attempt at running the test code with the components through the two-meter-long wire went well. I tested the incoming values roughly by concealing the LDR with my finger.

Part II: Housing the components in the “test tube.”

Similar to the previous prototype, I cut a new 10cm piece off the garden hose and drilled two opposing holes of the size of the components in the centre. To attach the LDR and the LDR I used hot glue only this time. The reasoning behind this is that hot glue has a much shorter drying/hardening time than the All Clear sealant. This allows an efficient applying of layer after layer within a relatively short period. The sealant ideally requires overnight drying which means assembly would span several days instead of hours.

The work with hot glue is messy and requires diligence. Therefor, the purpose of the first layer is to attach the components to the hose and make sure they are facing each other correctly.

After the first layer has been applied I test that the components have not been damaged in the process of hot glueing. The incoming values look good so far, but I am not entirely happy with the design. It is quite hard to apply hot glue around the components evenly. I already spot some small grooves in the glue that could cause some leaks later on.

Part III: Dear hot glue, please protect my components

While applying the next layer of hot glue, I have already made peace with the fact that this probe is going to look very odd. Basically, I am looking at a small dark-green piece of garden hose attached to a long cable with semi-transparent blobs of glue. I also notice that the wire close to the components appears to be under strain caused by the angle the components are attached to the hose. I should have immediately bent the connectors at a right angle to avoid this oddly shaped glue blob altogether.

Despite the aesthetic shortcomings of this turbidity sensor design all components seem to be working, and I am ready to compile a version that sends data wirelessly via the MQTT network so I can safely test the design in an underwater setting, without the need of a laptop attached to any submerged components.

References
donblair. (2015, August 25). Turbidity 001. Retrieved January 18, 2019, from publiclab.org/n/12168
Kelley, C., Krolick, A., Brunner, L., Burklund, A., Kahn, D., Ball, W., & Weber-Shirk, M. (2014). An Affordable Open-Source Turbidimeter. Sensors, 14(4), 7142–7155. https://doi.org/10.3390/s140407142
NIWA. (2008, December 17). Training notes. Retrieved January 28, 2019, from https://www.niwa.co.nz/our-science/freshwater/tools/shmak/manual
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Open Water Project. (n.d.). Open Water Project. Retrieved January 28, 2019, from https://github.com/OpenWaterProject